I only planned one museum visit for this trip because I knew that Eric would not likely be a big fan. Still, I love the Musee d’Orsay, and I haven’t been to Paris in 15 years – 15! – so I couldn’t resist. We had tickets for the earliest admission time and, after an extremely quick walk through the temporary Gaudi exhibit, we headed directly for the Impressionists to take advantage of our morning energy and the relatively smaller morning crowds.
Eric didn’t last long, Monet be damned. In fact, he quickly determined that he preferred the benches to anything else. (Granted, the benches are art in their own right – “Water Block” by Tokujin Yoshioka – but I’m pretty sure that’s not what attracted Eric.) He looked at the paintings for a room or two, then raced ahead to the end of the exhibit. There, he waited a few minutes, then returned to complain politely, then went ahead again. This cycle repeated several times. Each time, I showed him one piece or offered one idea; he listened & then left.
On his third return trip, Eric told me that a) he needed something to drink and b) there was a cafe at the end of the exhibit and c) it opened at 11. I agreed that we could go, suggested that my mom catch up to us after she looked at some more art, and wandered towards what I assumed would be an overpriced bottle of water and a Fanta at a museum kiosk thing.
A casual glance upended my expectations: sunlight spilled into a large, open room through the giant clock that dominated the far wall – a reminder that the museum was originally a train station. The yellow walls seemed luminous and everywhere bell-shaped pendant lights covered in golden squares glowed. As Eric dragged me into line – of course there was a line – I worried briefly about what I had just agreed to.
Minutes later the cafe opened, and we were shown to a table. Since we were among the first to order, we snagged some of the croissants and pain au chocolat to accompany our drinks. Our server poured our drinks with a flourish, teasing Eric, and we felt well looked-after. As I finished my tea (Eric’s Orangina was gone in a flash), an older man at the next table asked my mother, in French, if Eric was her grandson. I translated, she said yes, and the man told her that he was beautiful – he repeated it carefully in English, to make sure she understood. He struck up a conversation – much to his young nephew’s chagrin – and, although he was from Brazil, insisted on speaking French to Eric. Eventually, we called for our bill, and as we left, the gentleman told Eric that he must see Manet’s The Fifer before he left.
Was it the croissant? the cafe? the man who took the time to notice Eric and talk to him? I don’t know, but we managed to enjoy another hour of the museum – statues, models, and paintings, including, yes, The Fifer – before it was time to move on. My guess is that Eric will remember the setting and the conversation for at least as long as he remembers the artwork. I suspect I might, too.
Persistence and Pedagogy 
Your “Portrait of an 11 year old at the Musee d’Orsay” is brilliant.
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Honestly, that’s why I wrote the post. I love that picture & he said I could use it.
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How wonderful that you were able to spend time in the museum and Erik’s experience shifted from boring to memorable. I’ve been in the countryside for so long this summer that I have forgotten the city highlights. Your post inspires me to make myself an artist date in the city.
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I’ve been busy being a mom for so long that I’d almost forgotten the fun of traveling – even though I used to travel all the time. We’re only 2 days into this trip & I’m already really glad we came.
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Lovely piece. The kind man’s recommendation to see the Fifer reminds me of a piece Sally Donnelly wrote long ago about museum going with her two young daughters. They used to visit the gift shop first and let the girls choose postcards, then the visit became partially a hunt for those pieces. Brilliant, right? It sounds as if that principal worked for Eric, too.
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Oh, that is a *brilliant* idea. I’m definitely doing that next time!
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Museums with the uninterested can be a challenge, but this encounter surely made memories for all!
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It was certainly better for him afterwards. Fingers crossed he’ll remember the good part.
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Any trip somewhere with my three boys that involved snacks went better. We did the Air & Space Museum in Washington DC which kept their attention for quite a while. And then they found the “space age ice cream”. I love your pictures with your post!
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Musee d’Orsay and pain au chocolat!!!? Why didn’t I get invited? 😉
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Heeheehee- I’m imagining Ari at the museum. I feel like he and Eric might get along. Maybe next time I’ll grab you, we ditch the kids & come on our own!
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I need a Paris trip! I haven’t been since 2014. Museums are a huge part of my travel destination choices. I bet it won’t be long before Alex is also hooked on them. I love the story of bonding in a cafe and embracing art.
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If I were here on my own, there would be many museums in my plans… but Paris is so good for wandering that I can handle it.
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The Portrait is a classic. I have always been most fond of the pictures that weren’t the classic posed (sometimes artificial) smiles. I think Sarah’s nursery school was shocked when we ordered the picture of her scowling at the school photographer. I’ve missed some of your posts recently, but is there a story behind Mr 11 getting a more traditional name?
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Ha! We’ve got a scowling school picture, too. It was too perfect to pass up. And as for the name, well, using Mr 11 for the whole post got awkward & he gave me permission to use the photos & tell about the cafe, so… I just switched. I struggle with how best to keep their lives their own. This seemed like a reasonable compromise. 🤷🏼♀️
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That is a stunning story! (and sorry I am reading this now). Some great photos 🙂 It brought back memories of my trip to Paris.
Also, I have an Eric, too. Good name 🙂
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